Caffè La Crepa’s recipe for 2017
A delicious dish presented by the restaurant in Isola Davorese (Cremona): Italian-style Bourguignon: The eighth deadly sin. Eg. how to reread a classic from the Alps in East Lombardy.
We present an Italian evolution of the most classic specialty from the Alps, already on the menu with the name “Lumache nostrane alla moda di Borgogna – Local Bourguignon-style snails” but now there’s the updated 2017 version: Italian-style Bourguignon. A dish designed and prepared to 100% satisfy the desire for snails: here you eat everything, you do not discard anything, not even the... shells. The man who created the recipe, Federico Malinverno from Caffè La Crepa in Isola Dovarese (Cremona), explains: “It arose from a good idea that my father Franco had in 2009. We prepared a version for the big New Year's Eve dinner, but the result was unsatisfactory, too many things didn’t go together and you weren’t able to feel the strength, balance and elegance of the Bourguignon. So, it was abandoned, filed away. Only the genius of the idea was saved. Now, eight years later, it has evolved and has succeeded in expressing its insatiable importance (almost lust).”
Who wouldn’t want to try Bourguignon style snails? How much would we be willing to pay to avoid tongs and snail forks? The Malinverno family sought to answer these questions with the help of their collaborators Matteo Marini and Vittorio Leani, the chefs de partie, and Giulio, intern at Alma. “We tried and tried again until we found the right path to follow, optimising the result and the satisfication. Throughout all of this, we did not abandon our traditional recipe... In fact, we have personalised it even further.” Now Italian Bourguignon is available on the menu, or on Fanceat.com, the food delivery service for gourmet restaurants, where a 12-piece portion (classic French dozen - 4 per colour) is delivered to your home, ready to serve and bake in the oven for less than 10 minutes. Good teamwork.
Patron Federico Malinverno: “It arose from a good idea that my father Franco had in 2009. We prepared a version for the big New Year's Eve dinner, but the result was unsatisfactory... So, it was abandoned, filed away. Only the genius of the idea was saved. Now, eight years later, it has evolved and has succeeded in expressing its insatiable importance.”
The Italian Bourguignon: the eighth deadly sin
Recipe serves 4 people
500 g helix snails (Mantuan)
2 tablespoons tomato purée
½ cup Italian Brandy
3 bay leaves
1 cup white wine
500 g clarified butter
1 garlic clove
Salt as needed
Pepper as needed
20 drops of lemon juice
500 g bronze-drawn shell shaped durum wheat pasta (green: spinach; white: semolina; red: beetroot and paprika)
Cleaning the snails
Place the snails in a bowl and cover them with water and vinegar for at least 3 hours to clean them out. Remove the snails from the bowl and place them in a pot. Add cold water and bring to them to the boil. Once the water is boiling, turn down the heat and allow to boil for at least 5 minutes. Turn off the heat, drain snails, and with the help of a skewer, extract them from the shells and remove the liver and the dirt. Wash them well under running water and place them in a bowl of water and vinegar. Rinse again under running water.
For the Bourguignon
Prepare a sauté with parsley, garlic, lard and onion chopped in small pieces. Brown the snails (previously blanched, shelled and cleaned as mentioned above), add the brandy, white wine and tomato purée (with bay leaves) and allow to simmer and reduce. Cover with broth and leave it to cook for 3 - 4 hours. Separate the snails, let them cool. Manually soften the butter, add the crushed garlic, chopped parsley, salt, pepper and add the lemon juice and anchovies. Allow the softened butter to cool and then proceed with the instructions to fill the pasta shells.
For the filling
Inside the pasta shells (previously cooked al dente) place a little bit of softened butter, a snail and then add some more softened bitter to cover and finish. A sprinkling of breadcrumbs completes the dish. For the final cooking: bake in the oven for about 10 minutes at 130°C.
Serve in a bowl with a knife and fork. There is no need for tongs and snail forks as you eat everything! Bread (preferably hot) is a must, as it is compulsory to mop up all the butter.