Chicken in Carpione marinade is East Lombardy’s dish of July
Bergamo’s oldest recipe – but extremely current – created by Petronilla Frosio of Ristorante Posta in Sant’Omobomo Terme, will be on offer throughout the month at Orio al Serio.
Petronilla Frosio from Ristorante Posta in Sant’Omobomo Terme, in the province of Bergamo, created the “Chicken in Carpione marinade”, the plate of the month, in collaboration with East Lombardy – European Region of Gastronomy 2017. It is served (together with a cheese tasting plate, a bottle of S.Pellegrino and a glass of Franciacorta) at Winegate 11’s food court “Italy loves food” at the Orio al Serio airport. “This is Bergamo’s oldest recipe from “Cocho Bergamasco alla casalinga”, the first cookery manual in written form that dates back to the period between the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, re-edited by Silvia Tropea Montagnosi. Although it is a “dated” dish, it is extremely current, it is also easy to make and fit for all seasons”, tells the 58-year-old chef who runs the restaurant that his family opened in 1910.
Can you tell us about it?
“To prepare the ‘Chicken in Carpione marinade’, which in the original Renaissance recipe was made with capon, besides the chicken breast you need capers, almonds, cinnamon, pine nuts, anchovies, extra virgin olive oil, citron or lemon peel and, finally, red vinegar and mascovado sugar. They are ingredients that, although appear to be from far away, all originate in our territory. Almonds grew in the outer Bergamasco hills, anchovies were eaten together with stockfish, spices are a legacy belonging to Lombardy-Veneto."
At this point, will you also tell us how to prepare it?
You have to put a chicken breast in a non-stick frypan, then put it in the oven at 70° for 85 minutes. In a small saucepan, you have to melt 4 anchovy fillets in 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, ½ tablespoon of sugar, 3 tablespoons of red vinegar, then add two cups of extra-virgin olive oil and leave to rest. After removing the chicken breast from the oven, place it in a container and cover it with pine nuts, rinsed capers, cinnamon, sliced almonds and the anchovy mix”.
Is this dish on the menu at your restaurant?
It’s a ‘carpione’, which even though it usually goes with fish, I offer it with white meats”.
“To prepare it, besides the chicken breast you need capers, almonds, cinnamon, pine nuts, anchovies, extra virgin olive oil, citron or lemon peel and, finally, red vinegar and mascovado sugar. All these ingredients originate in our territory.
The past that ties with the present…
"Yes, it’s an important concept also for young people working in the kitchen. They are projected into the future, but they must understand that it is necessary to maintain contact with the past."
In 2017, the territory of East Lombardy, which brings together Bergamo, Brescia, Cremona and Mantua, is the European Region of Gastronomy, can it help to understand the importance of valorising food and wine traditions?
I hope that chefs and cooks have a renewed pride in traditional dishes and that it can help to not lose contact with such traditions. Of course, these dishes have to be lightened to meet modern demands, but this must be done with respect to the land, so we do not lose the roots of a cuisine that, as the ‘Chicken in Carpione marinade’ shows us, was already revolutionary 300 years ago.”
At your ‘Posta’ do you offer other traditional recipes?
"Let’s not forget family recipes: tripe is compulsory on Thursdays during the winter months, as well as polenta with Branzi cheese."
As mentioned throughout July, the dish will be served at Winegate 11, within the new food court "ITALY LOVES FOOD" located in the departing area at Milan Bergamo Airport. Passengers in transit will be able to enjoy the dish that will be faithfully reproduced by WineGate11's kitchen brigade under the supervision of chef Vittorio Fusari. The initiative involves a staff of 8 chefs from April 2017 until March 2018, alternating with each one offering their own signature dish made from the best raw materials in East Lombardy’s territory. Each month - with a break in August - it will be possible to enjoy a chef’s signature dish in the context of the wider program of valorisation of the European Region of Gastronomy 2017.
By Mariella Caruso
On the cover: photo by Sonia Santagostino